Archive for Grainline Scout

Spring Maternity Scout

The weather is getting warmer, my belly is getting bigger and I needed a new t-shirt! The knit Scout Tee I made a few years ago fit pretty well up until recently so I decided that would be a good pattern to start with. When I pulled out my Scout pattern I realized that for the last woven version I made I added a curved hem and lowered the neckline. Both modifications seemed like a good idea for a maternity t-shirt so I decided to go with it!

green scout front

The only other change I made was to add 3 inches in length. I also tried out a different neckline finish – Megan Nielsen’s binding technique. I like the way it turned out and will definitely use it again. I think it’s a particularly nice choice for heavier knits.

green scout back

The fabric is a cotton knit from Stonemountain. I don’t see it on their website, but it’s a mid-weight knit and I believe the color is moss. Love this bright spring green. My mom and sister kindly did a little fabric shopping for me on their last visit to Stonemountain – thanks guys, good job!

green scout side

Only one month to go! I’ve started browsing baby patterns and thinking about clothes that will work for breastfeeding. If you have any favorite patterns please share!

Details: Grainline Scout tee, sz 0 with lowered armscye, lengthened 3″, added curved hem and lowered neckline

Pajama Party!

The Sewcialists have declared July lingerie sewing month and I’m more than happy to participate. I’ve been busy making pajamas and loungewear for several months now. Despite this I haven’t managed a single blog picture! So I enlisted the help of my Mom (who has also been sewing up PJs like crazy) to document all of our pajama sewing.

PJ_turquoise

Up first… I’m wearing True Bias Hudson pants and a knit Scout tee. My Hudsons are in a poly sweater knit. For this version I stuck close to the pattern. Love it! Mom is also in a Scout tee and her bottoms are Butterick B5829 View E. This is her perfect combo so all of her sets are B5829 and Scout. These are in a rayon jersey.

PJ_camo

Mom is in True Camo cotton knit featuring a wheat print. These prints are kind of a cross between nature photography and camo, aren’t they? Anyway, they make awesome pajamas! I’m in another pair of Hudsons – this time in a cotton terry. I left out the drawstring but otherwise stuck with the pattern. Paired with my favorite Plantain muscle tee.

PJ_moths

I’m in another pair of Hudsons but this time I mixed it up with a rayon. I used the woven variation that Kelly posted. The fabric is Anna Maria Horner’s Sinister Swarm. The first time I saw this fabric I thought “must be pajamas…” Mom’s are a rayon knit. And I think we both scored our fabric on sale from Stonemountain.

PJ_yoga

Our final pairs. Mom is sporting Anna Maria Horner now. And this time my Hudsons are a size smaller and made without cuffs or drawstring. Recognize the fabric? Same sweater knit as the contrast color in the first pair. And worn with a Plantain tee.

PJ_rack

So what can we conclude from our pajama party? First, it’s great to sew your own lounge wear. Obviously don’t be shy about prints or colors. And once you find your perfect pajama pattern you may not want to stray! What about you? Do you make your own pajamas?

Details:
Mom – Butterick B5829 View E sz S, Grainline Scout Tee sz 0
Me – True Bias Hudson pants sz 6 waist graded to sz 10 hips (light grey pair is sz 4 graded to sz 8), front crotch shortened ~1″, woven pair are sz 10 waist graded to sz 14

Striped Linen Scout and Plain White Linden

Me-Made-May is off to a good start! I’ve got a couple of new garments to share today, both from Grainline Studio patterns. First is this light and airy Scout Tee.

linen scout front

This top is heavily inspired by this lovely striped Scout.

linen scout side

I added a curved hem and lengthened the sleeves so they could be rolled up.

linen scout back

The striped linen fabric from Stonemountain is very lightweight and a little crisp.

linen scount action

Since it was a little chilly out I layered on my new Linden sweatshirt. Although I wasn’t sure about a plain white sweatshirt I resisted the temptation to embellish. And I’ve gotta say I’m glad. Thanks to everyone who recommended leaving it plain!

white linden front

This is made from an organic cotton fleece. The only adjustment I made was to shorten the body by 2″ just like my other Lindens.

white linden back

I’m also linking up with Gray All Day’s Sew it Chic in a Week #14.

Designer Inspired Silk Tanks

Hello, what have you been sewing? I’ve been working on some silk tanks. I saw this look from the Bally 2015 Spring collection and was really taken with the v-neck tank. The front seam, deep v, wide shoulder – yep, all of it. I decided to work from my Scout Tank which is loosely based on Grainline’s Scout Tee.

Here’s the first version:

Scout Tank

It’s made from a remnant of pale pink silk noil. Love the combination of drape and texture in this fabric.

Scout Tank

Scout Tank
For the next one I decided the v needed to be deeper and the shoulders a bit wider. The shoulder seams needed to be moved towards the back. And there was a bit of pulling from the armscye towards my bust – not enough to be uncomfortable, but enough to tweak the fit a little. Here’s the second version:

Scout Tank

Woohoo! Very happy with this one – it’s got the design features I liked in the Bally tank and is perfectly wearable in real life (ahem, the v-neck is safe to wear to work). The armscye fits better too.

Scout Tank

This one is made from a lavender silk-cotton twill. I am so digging lavender right now and having a hard time finding fabric this color. I’d like to make one more of these. I think a fabric with a little more body might be nice – any suggestions?

Scout Tank

I’m also joining Gray All Day’s Sew it Chic link up this week. Be sure to check it out!

Details: started with Grainline Scout Tee sz 0, added front center seam, v-neck, wider shoulders, lower armscye, and pretty sure the original pattern was shortened 1″ or more

Feature or Flaw?

Although I’ve sewn plenty of cooler weather things it’s been hard to get inspired for pictures. But now that it feels like spring I’m ready to find a cool doorway… This is a swing tank based on Grainline’s Scout Tee first seen in a wild floral last fall.

Feature or Flaw?

Have you ever bought a piece of fabric and then discovered a big flaw that you couldn’t cut around? That’s what happened with this black linen. There’s a pretty noticeable line where the fabric changes from light grey to dark grey. I debated buying more fabric or covering the line with trim. In the end I figured why not make it a design feature! I was able to line it up on the front just over the bust like a yoke. And I think it manages to look pretty intentional. What do you think?

Feature or Flaw?

The only change I made for this version was to reduce the amount of swing a little. I just overlapped some of the “slashed & spread” sections to make it a bit more fitted through the body – I probably took out about an inch from the front and back. Next time I may lengthen it a bit in the front.

Details: based on Scout Tee sz 0, added about 3″ width to the bottom of the front and back, shortened by 1″, cut in the shoulders, brought the neckline up and added a bias bound slit to the neck

Scout Swing Tank

Another Grainline Scout pattern hack! I’m getting so much mileage out of this pattern. The inspiration for this top started with the Madewell Scout tutorial that Jen posted. I decided to mix it up a little and use it to create my own version of a different Madewell top. There are an awful lot of Madewell tops on my pinterest boards to choose from!

Floral-Swing

I slashed & spread the pattern to create the swing shape and cut in around the shoulders a bit more than on my previous Scout tank hack. I used Madewell Scout variation tutorial for the split neck. I also brought the length up a little.

Floral-Swing-Side

I picked up the fabric from the sale floor at Stonemountain & Daughter. It’s a cotton jacquard with an interesting loose weave. The print is both loud and a floral – not my usual style. This was intended as a wearable muslin but I’ve ended up wearing it quite a bit. I’ve also made another version in a black yarn-dyed linen which I’ll tell you about when I get a picture.

floral-swing-close

Details: a little fuzzy – started with the Scout in sz 0, added 4″ width to the bottom of the front and back, shortened by 1″, cut in the shoulders, brought the neckline up and added a bias bound slit to the neck

Pattern Hack – Grainline Scout Tank

I’ve been on a pattern hacking kick lately. First up is a sleeveless version of the Grainline Scout Tee.

This pattern hack is inspired by a friend with a very cute top. I recently saw her in a loose fitting, slightly cropped tank. Rather than steal hers I thought I’d make my own. Her top reminded me of the Scout Tee so I headed home and whipped up the first version. This one is in Nani Iro Pocho double gauze from Miss Matatabi that I have been hoarding for just the right summer top.

Grainline Scout Tank in Nani Iro Double Gauze

One of the cool things about the inspiration top is the v-neck in back. So I gave that a shot, too.

Grainline Scout Tank in Nani Iro Double Gauze

Altogether very happy with this first attempt. But the more open front and back necklines made it a little loose on top. So to improve the fit I added little ribbon bra-strap carriers using Dixie DIY’s tutorial.

This one’s gotten plenty of wear so I knew I wanted to make another. For the second one I removed a little fabric along the neckline (took a small wedge out of the front and the back) for a closer fit up top and shortened it more.

Grainline Scout Tank in Rayon Chambray

This one is made from a tencel chambray which has a lot of drape. I didn’t want to fuss with using the tencel for bias tape since it’s a bit slippery but I didn’t want to use the heavy cotton-poly pre-made stuff either. So I made some bias tape using a cotton-silk blend that’s been sitting in my stash. It was really easy to work with and a good match to the weight of the fabric.

Grainline Scout Tank in Rayon Chambray

Quick question: does anyone have a good method for applying bias tape around a v-neck? I sort of made this up as I went along and while it turned out ok I wouldn’t mind some tips or pointers to tutorials if anyone knows of one.

Details: Scout woven tee sz 0, lowered armscye, no sleeves, modified front and back neckline (lowered and removed some width), shortened by ~2 inches

Scout Dress

I’ve been admiring shift dresses and t-shirt dresses and wanted to make one. I tried the Colette Laurel pattern, but it wasn’t meant to be – lots of fit issues to address. Since I wanted a more instant-gratification project, I decided to use the Scout Tee as the base for a dress. There was no shortage of online inspiration for turning the Scout into a dress.

I lengthened the Scout tee pattern about 12 inches (I think) and kept the slightly curved hem. I used a fairly stiff red cotton ikat print. Once it was sewn together I wasn’t satisfied with the shape. I thought a couple of darts in the back would help define the waist, but there were a few wrinkles and it didn’t seem quite right. So I consulted with my local sewing expert (thanks Mom). We played around with the shape, pinning in a few darts where the fabric was creasing and taking in the sides a bit. I tweaked the darts a few more times and ended up with two darts in the back and four in the front; two below the waist and two below the bust.

My dress fits now and I really like the way it turned out. Enough to go out in public looking for scenic backdrops!

Scout Tee Dress Front

Scout Tee Dress Back

Scout Tee Dress Side

Notes to self:
– Darts aren’t so scary, and I will be much more confident about adding and adjusting in future projects.
– Darts affect the length — the dress is 3-4 inches shorter with the darts. Next time I’ll give myself a little more length to worth with.
– Stiff cotton does not make a drapey dress. A good reminder. 😉

Details: size 0, lowered armscye, size 2 sleeve, lengthened shirt by 12″, added 6 darts for shaping