Archive for Grainline Studio

Khadi Hemlock

The Grainline Hemlock pattern has been a great base for both knit and woven tops. This is the second time I’ve used this kimono sleeve variation with a woven fabric – the first was with a kick ass Nani Iro double gauze.

Khadi Hemlock

The fabric is a hand-woven khadi from A Verb for Keeping Warm in Oakland. It’s lightweight with a really interesting texture. I added a little pleat to the sleeves which is especially fun with the stripes.

Khadi Hemlock Pleated Sleeve

Details: Grainline studio’s free Hemlock pattern with 2″ removed from the front and the back, the shoulders extended by a couple of inches, 3-4″ shorter, pleated shoulder

The Process… or Perfect At Last

I’m a huge fan of the Grainline Scout and Hemlock patterns so I decided to give the Tiny Pocket Tank a try. The first version was a little snug around the arms and I got some bunching on the shoulder straps. A little browsing online shows this is a common fit issue. The second try involved some extremely unfriendly fabric (shrinking, color running, holes, argh). The third try was still a little snug in the arms but definitely wearable. And finally, the fourth version…


This one is very comfy and made out of some soft and lovely Robert Kaufman Chambray.

Details: sz 2, scooped out armscye, increased length of bias binding for neck and arms, squared the shoulders, graded out slightly at hips, lowered bust dart 7/8″, shortened bust dart 1/4″, no pocket!

Modified Hemlock in Nani Iro &

This top was inspired by two things. First the fabulous Nani Iro double gauze fabric. Second the lace Hemlock that CUTCUTSEW posted.

I started with a slimmed down Hemlock and made a few adjustments: I extended the sleeves for more of a kimono sleeve and shortened it a bit. I made two practice versions before cutting into the Nani Iro. It seemed too precious to experiment on!

Nani Iro Hemlock

This is a very large scale print so I didn’t worry about matching it at the side seams. I did take a little care laying out the pattern.

Nani Iro Hemlock Side

Details: Grainline studio’s free Hemlock pattern with 2″ removed from the front and the back, the shoulders extended by a couple of inches, and 3-4″ shorter

Scout Dress

I’ve been admiring shift dresses and t-shirt dresses and wanted to make one. I tried the Colette Laurel pattern, but it wasn’t meant to be – lots of fit issues to address. Since I wanted a more instant-gratification project, I decided to use the Scout Tee as the base for a dress. There was no shortage of online inspiration for turning the Scout into a dress.

I lengthened the Scout tee pattern about 12 inches (I think) and kept the slightly curved hem. I used a fairly stiff red cotton ikat print. Once it was sewn together I wasn’t satisfied with the shape. I thought a couple of darts in the back would help define the waist, but there were a few wrinkles and it didn’t seem quite right. So I consulted with my local sewing expert (thanks Mom). We played around with the shape, pinning in a few darts where the fabric was creasing and taking in the sides a bit. I tweaked the darts a few more times and ended up with two darts in the back and four in the front; two below the waist and two below the bust.

My dress fits now and I really like the way it turned out. Enough to go out in public looking for scenic backdrops!

Scout Tee Dress Front

Scout Tee Dress Back

Scout Tee Dress Side

Notes to self:
– Darts aren’t so scary, and I will be much more confident about adding and adjusting in future projects.
– Darts affect the length — the dress is 3-4 inches shorter with the darts. Next time I’ll give myself a little more length to worth with.
– Stiff cotton does not make a drapey dress. A good reminder. 😉

Details: size 0, lowered armscye, size 2 sleeve, lengthened shirt by 12″, added 6 darts for shaping

Linen Scout – #3

Did I mention how much I like the Scout Tee pattern? This is the third one, in a printed linen. I tried out french seams for this one, using Jen’s excellent tutorial. The inside is so neat and tidy. Love it. And it’s actually warm enough that I wore it yesterday!


Details: size 0, lowered armscye and used size 2 sleeve

Grainline Studio Scout Tee

When I started making clothes about a year ago, one of the first patterns I bought was Grainline Studio’s Scout tee. Wow – what a great pattern! I practiced with a cotton plaid but I really love my second one in Japanese cotton ikat. The cotton is soft and has a nice drape. I made a few modifications, including binding the neckline on the outside to show off the contrasting black ikat fabric, and lowering the armscye about 1/2″. I wear this one constantly. And now that the weather is warmer, I’m looking forward to wearing it more.


Details: size 0, scooped out the armscye 1/2″ or so

Flannel Scout

This is also a winter make. I love the Scout Tee and wanted to make a warmer one so I grabbed some cotton flannel. I also drafted a 3/4 length sleeve. Not quite as nicely as Jen describes in this tutorial, but it seems to work and now I know how to do it properly. This is a very cozy top, and I’ve even gotten compliments on it. Win!


Details: size 0, lowered armscye, size 2 sleeve

Wool Scout

This is one of my favorite Scout tees, made over the winter. The wool plaid is from a yard sale (thanks Mom!) so it’s also super thrifty. I didn’t line it since I wear it layered over t-shirts. I finished the hem with hem tape and a blind hem stitch.


Details: size 0, lowered armscye, size 2 sleeve

Knit Scout

I tried a knit scout several months ago, and it turned out kind of droopy and shapeless. But my Mom has been whipping up knit scouts like crazy, and when I saw her bias cut ones I was inspired to try again. After a little thought I finally realized that going down a size might solve the problem (I’m still sorta new to sewing…)

So I graded down a size from my usual 0. And made a knit scout, cut on the bias. And it fits! But I didn’t take into account how stable and un-stretchy this cotton knit was. For the next one I’ll try a drapier knit which should give a more relaxed fit. Stay tuned.


Details: graded down one size from a size 0

Hemlock #2

My second Grainline Hemlock Tee. This one has short sleeves and is in a fairly stable cotton knit. I think I made it last fall. Looking forward to it being a bit warmer so I can wear it without a sweater.